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Frequently-Asked
Questions
FAQs
Featured question:
What is the advantage of using a Electronic Dimmer
instead of the Rheostat type?
Select a topic and
click on it:
General
Questions CLICK
Battery-Related products CLICK
Circuit Protection CLICK
Dimmer Switches CLICK
Ignition Switches CLICK
Push-Pull Switches CLICK
Senders CLICK
Solenoids CLICK
Toggle & Rocker Switches CLICK
Wiper Switches CLICK
General
Questions
Q: How do I connect a
specific Cole Hersee part?
Locate the part in our Interactive Catalog. Each part has a
full description, with a drawing, and oftentimes a wiring diagram. Use this information.
If you are still having
difficulties, you should consult an electrical professional. If you make an improper
connection you could cause damage or injury.
Q: How do I find a
substitute part?
Consult the Alternate Part Number List. This is a PDF
file.
OR Use the
Interactive Catalog. Go to the
Interactive Product Index, then search by means of the characteristics (top right). Unless
you have a very specific application, it is highly likely that your search will suggest
alternates.
Q: There's an electrical
term I don't understand.
Check the Dictionary
of Terms in the Resource Center. There's also a list of
specific links that can give you more information. Reference
Links
Q: Where can I buy Cole
Hersee parts?
For Original Equipment Manufacturers:
Check the Cole Hersee Rep
List. Our representative will be happy to follow up.
Contact us for your nearest distributor sales@colehersee.com
Q: The Cole Hersee
catalog rates most of the switches at 12V DC. Can they be safely used in a 24V
application?
Sometimes.
Items such as Solenoids and Illuminated Switches must be used at the rated current and
voltage due to the internal components.
Ignition, push-pull, momentary, door and other types of non-illuminated switches can be
used in a 24V system, with one proviso. For a 24V application you must de-rate the current
capability of a 12V product.. Using Ohm's Law, if you double the voltage, you must divide
the current in half. For example, if you have a 12V, 20A product, you can use it in a 24V,
10A system
Q: I don't see what I
need, can Cole Hersee make it for me?
Possibly.
Contact our Sales Department and explain your situation. We'll evaluate the request and
get back to you with a cost estimate. sales@colehersee.com
There are minimum quantity requirements. We cannot accommodate requests for individual or
small lots.
Q: Do you have switches
for my boat?
Yes we do.
The main factor in determining if a switch is capable of withstanding the harsh marine
environment is corrosion resistance. Steel and salt water are not a good combination.
Switches constructed from brass are ideal for marine use, as well as those that are made
of plastic. For a really robust switch, brass is much sturdier than plastic. Many Cole
Hersee switches are encapsulated in plastic to give added weather-resistance, and many
switches are UL or CE or USCG-rated.
Q: Is there any advantage
to screw or blade terminals on a switch?
If the
component is a replacement, try to obtain the same type of termination, because it makes
your job easier. Screw terminals require more time to install than blade terminals do, but
usually perform better on vehicles due to the vibration factor.
Q:The catalog shows two
switches that are identical, except that one has a higher current rating. How can this be,
and why does one cost more?
Some switches
are used in many different applications, We make different switches for
different critical applications. A switch with a higher rating will have more expensive internal components (bronze,
copper, silver, and sometimes gold), therefore the cost is higher.
You should select a switch that meets (or just exceeds) your needs:
otherwise you will pay for extra capability that you don't need, or the
switch might fail if it doesn't meet your specs.
Cole Hersee offers a
broad range of switches in different current ratings to allow you to buy the product that
best suits your needs, at the best price.
Q: What is a Packard
Connector?
Sounds like
something that only fits your granddad's old car, but no. It's an industry standard
connector formerly made by the Packard Electric Company (now known as Delphi.) The name of
the connector stays the same though.
Take care: there are several Packard connectors:
- No. 74600-02 Electronic dimmer switch
has a 3-pole Packard #298437
- No. 95408 Ignition switch mates with
a 5-pole Packard #2984170
- No. 95410 Ignition switch mates with
a 7-pole Packard #6288702
We can make all of these switches with any connectors that your heart desires. You just
need to be able to order enough so that we can make a batch that's economical for you.
Contact our Sales Department sales@colehersee.com
They can help you out.
- Delphi Packard
CLICK
Battery-Related
Products
Q: What is the voltage
drop between the center stud (alternator terminal) and the battery terminals?
The forward
voltage drop is approximately from 0.7V to 1V (Function of the forward current)
Q: According to the wiring
diagram the battery to the "S" must be connected to the primary terminal (yellow
wire). My alternator does not have an "S" terminal.
In this case
disregard this part of the installation instruction.
| Q: How is the Battery
Isolator current capability defined?
Maximum
alternator rating is the maximum charging current capability of the Battery Isolator for
both batteries.
Maximum current per leg is a half of the maximum alternator current rating
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| What type of Battery
Isolator should be used with the Delcotron CS Series alternator?
Use the four
terminal Battery Isolator (Cole Hersee 48122, 48092 or 48162). The fourth terminal (#10
stud) is used to excite the alternator .It supplies +12V to the alternator when the
ignition switch is turned On.
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Circuit
Protection
| What's the difference
between the M-412 type Fuse Blocks and the 4622?
The M-412 type
is all brass construction and the 4622 has steel rivets in them.
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What size breaker or fuse can I use in a 46377 type Circuit Breaker/ Fuse Block?
The breaker or
fuse should not be rated for more than 25A per breaker or fuse with the total of all items
used not to be more than 150A.
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Dimmer
Switches
| How do I select the
right dimmer switch?
If you need a
replacement, take a look at the switch that's already there. Does it mount on or through the floorboard, or on the panel (dashboard)?
All floor switches are SPDT On - On, depress - release for low beam, depress - release for
high beam. All are made from corrosion-resistant diecast metal with moisture-repellent
insulators.
Variations are in the location of the mounting holes, and the nature of the terminals (
lead, blade, bullet or screw).
Panel: we suggest No. 7112
On the floorboard: (all are 3-blade)
7702
7762
7776
Through the floorboard:
7700 we recommend this one where the switch may be exposed to
roadsplash.
7769
7770
7771
7774
7775
7784
7786
7787
7789-02
Check these items in our interactive catalog: they have listings for the OEM parts that
they replace.
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What is the advantage of using a Electronic Dimmer instead of the
Rheostat type?
74600-02
Electronic Dimmer
Solid state devices dissipate very little power.
They are either fully on or fully off. The power dissipation of a Rheostat Dimmer is
proportional to the maximum load current, independent of the position of the dimmer. The
energy used to overcome the resistance produces heat.
Electronic dimmers are not load sensitive.
Changing the load (for example by adding or removing a light) will not produce a
noticeable difference in brightness of a light.
Electronic dimmers are considerably more efficient.
There is less loss in the feed cables and substantially less loss (more than 50 times) in
the dimmer unit itself. It therefore doesn't generate a noticeable amount of heat
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Can I use Electronic Dimmers to control the speed of the motor?
Typical
Electronic Dimmers can supply power to motors and make them run, but the dimmers aren't
designed for it. Connecting inductive loads to dimmers can damage them.
There are Electronic Dimmers designed for inductive loads. They are application specific.
For details contact engineering@colehersee.com
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Senders
| What is the difference
between a sender and a switch?
A switch
creates a situation that is all or nothing. That is, it allows current to flow or
not to flow. The current that flows is not graduated, and is suitable to actuate a pilot
light. A sender gives a variable signal of graduated intensity that is suitable to actuate
a gauge, indicating a certain level.
Our temperature switches have a mechanical contact that is actuated on or off with changes
in the temperature surrounding the switch. A temperature senders have a resistive element
that varies depending on the surrounding temperature. The temperature sender provides a
resistance value to the gauge causing the gauge to fluctuate.
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Do you have other switches than what are listed in your catalog?
Yes. Contact
us to determine the part to fit your application. Sales@colehersee.com
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Can I have a catalog pressure or temperature switch modified to meet my needs?
In most cases
yes, if we do not already have a suitable part in stock.
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Q: What's the difference between an insulated and a non-insulated switch?
In an
insulated switch, the contacts are isolated from the chassis ground or engine block.
In a non-insulated switch, the contacts short to the chassis ground or engine block when
the switch makes, essentially providing a ground connection to your load.
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Q: Can I use
your non-insulated pressure or temperature switches with 110V AC?
No. These
switches are not rated for 110V AC application. Have a knowledgeable electrician determine
suitability for your application.
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Q: Can I use your pressure or temperature switches to operate a gauge?
No. You need a
temperature or pressure sender. Check our online catalog.
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Q:
Can your pressure switches handle more pressure than the On/Off rated pressure?
Generally Yes.
These switches have an On/Off rated pressure and a higher safe burst pressure. For your
own safety your system pressure should be less than the burst pressure. Before you install
a pressure switch, you should always determine your maximum system pressure first.
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Q:
Can I use your pressure and temperature switches at 24V?
Yes.
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Q:
Can I use the temperature senders listed in the catalog at higher than 12V?
No. Contact us
for the proper part for your application. Sales@colehersee.com
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Solenoids
Check the
interactive training section
CLICK
| Q: What types of solenoids
do you have?
You've come to
the right place for selection. We have about 50 of them! We have 12V, 24V, and 36V
continuous or intermittent duty solenoids. We have steel or molded bakelite housings. We
have plasticized housings for weather-resistance. We even have a Latching Solenoid, which
is energized and de-energized by a momentary switch. We have an Electronic Solenoid rated
at 85A continuous that can be used for voltages from 9 to 31. We have a 200A continuous
duty solenoid, rated at 12V or 24V DC. We manufacture lots of solenoids!
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Q:
Do you have UL or CE listed solenoids?
Oh yes! The
online catalog can guide you to them.
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Q:
How much current does the control circuit in a solenoid draw?
Generally, the
control circuit for a continuous duty solenoid rated at 12V DC draws approximately æ of
an ampere. The control circuit for a 24V DC continuous duty solenoid draws approximately
0.3 amps. An intermittent duty 12V DC solenoid draws approximately 3A, and the 24V DC
about 1.2A.
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Q:
My continuous duty solenoid gets hot. Is something wrong?
The coil
circuit (control circuit) in a continuous duty solenoid is usually energized for long
periods of time. Under these conditions the coil will generate heat and within less than
an hour the solenoid housing will become hot to the touch. This is normal. Always make
sure that all wiring is properly sized for the load it is carrying, that the terminals are
the correct size and have been securely crimped to the wire, that the terminals have the
proper torque to the solenoid studs. Alternatively, you might be able to use the Latching
Solenoid that only needs a one-time momentary actuation to stay in the On position.
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Q:
Are there any special mounting instructions for solenoids?
Electromechanical
solenoids should be mounted on a non-vibrating surface such as a fender well or firewall.
They should not be mounted on a surface that vibrates such as an engine, as this may
reduce the lifetime of the component. Continuous duty solenoids should be mounted in an
area that has ventilation, as the coil circuit normally generates heat. Orientation of the
solenoid, i.e. bracket up, bracket down, or bracket at right angle to the ground does not
usually affect solenoid performance. Electronic solenoids are much more rugged, because
they have no moving parts. They also will stand up to an incredible one million On-Off
cycles!
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Q: What is 'make' and
'break'?
Make and break are terms which apply to
any switching situation, but particularly to Intermittent Duty Solenoids, where the
buildup of heat can cause failure of the component.
Make and break are RATINGS. A particular
component, such as a solenoid, may be rated for duty at a given amperage and voltage that
should not be exceeded.
Make is when the switch (or
solenoid) is turned On (the circuit is 'made'), and break is when the switch is turned Off
(the circuit is 'broken'). Such values would need to be checked with an instrument such as
a meter.
Note also that Intermittent Duty
Solenoids have a limitation on the time (duty cycle) they may be kept On and the time they
need to recover (to allow heat dissipation.)
Q: I just installed a 24420 continuous duty solenoid
on my road bus. With no load on the secondary contacts, the can runs warm to hot when
energized.
If this is a normal event, then I have no problem. I always assumed that continuous
duty solenoids ran cool.
When the coil is energized continuously the
heat from the coil circuit causes the can to run warm to hot. This is normal
Cole Hersee solenoids No. 24400, 24401,
24402, and 24401-01 are similar, but have two modes of continuous duty
service which makes them suitable for forward and reverse systems in some applications.
Without the coil energized the contacts
which are closed are rated at 35A. In this instance the can should not run hot.
With the coil energized the contacts which
were closed open and the contacts which were open close. The circuit that is closed is
rated at 85A.
When the coil is energized continuously the
heat from the coil circuit causes the can to run warm to hot.
No. 24400, 24401, 24402, and 24401-01 are
commonly used in forward and reverse systems in golf carts, garden tractors, winches, fork
lift trucks, and many other applications
Toggle and
Rocker Switches
Q:
I need a refresher course on Single Pole/Double Pole and Single Throw/Double throw.
You're not
alone. These diagrams should help
1. simple
2. SPST
3. SPDT
4. DPST
5. DPDT
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Q:
Can I replace the bulb in any of your toggle or rocker switches?
The bulbs are
wired inside the switch and therefore cannot be replaced. We use a long lasting bulb so
that the need for bulb replacement is unlikely in a normal automotive application.
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Q:
Can I use your non-lighted toggle or rocker switches in 110V AC applications?
Except for
switches M-493, 5507 and similar switches, none of our switches are officially rated for
AC voltage application. While we are confident some of them can, it is totally up to the
end user to determine their suitability for such application.
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Q:
Can I use your lighted rocker and toggle switches at 110V AC?
No
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Q:
Can I use your lighted rocker and toggle switches at 24V DC?
No. The ones
that are shown on this site are not capable of handling 24V. We do have other switches
capable of handling 24V that are not listed here. Please contact us if you need them in
quantity. Sales@colehersee.com
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Q:
Can I use your non-lighted toggle and rocker switches at 24V DC?
Yes. They are
rated at 12V, so you must reduce the amp rating by half to obtain the same durability.
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Q:
Can I get any of your toggle or rocker switches modified to meet my special application?
es, in most
cases. It is possible we make a suitable item already that isn't listed because of its
specialized use. Alternatively, we can make it for you. Naturally we have a minimum
quantity requirement for special orders.
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Q:
Do your lighted toggle or rocker switches have incandescent or LED lamps?
The switches
listed on this site have incandescent lamps. But we do have other switches that have
LED's. Contact us if you need a special order with LEDS: Sales@colehersee.com
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Q:
Can I have my company's imprinting placed on a rocker switch?
Yes. Contact
us. If it's a standard legend or SAE symbol, there's a chance that it's already available.
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Push-Pull
Switches
| Q: What is the preferred
mounting for a Momentary Push-Pull Switch?
They are best
mounted on a vertical (or close to vertical) panel. Avoid mounting them on an exposed
panel that is more horizontal than vertical.
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Q: Can I have a different knob on my Push-Pull Switch?
Sure. We have
chromium-plated solid brass knobs in a variety of styles, or plastic knobs. Our plastic
knobs all have a metal core that provides a solid connection to the spindle of the switch.
You will need to consider shaft size, threads (if any) and symbol or text. Check the
online catalog under Accessories/Hardware/Knobs. If you have a Master Catalog, see section
Q.
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Q: I need to control one load from two different locations with a Push-Pull Switch.
Use our M-630
Push-Pull Switch. It's an On-On switch. Install one in each location and wire them to
control the Off-On function of a single load.
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Q: I need to mount an SPST Push-Pull switch so that the knob side of the switch will be
exposed to the weather.
Try not to
mount it so that it will be exposed to the full force of nature. If it has be exposed to
the elements then the preferred mounting is on a vertical panel, rather than being mounted
at an angle to the weather. A switch such as our 50066 would be a good choice because it
has an o-ring in the mounting stem that gives an added protection against the inclemency
of the weather.
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Wiper
Switches
Q:
What is the difference between dynamic and non-dynamic brakes?
Your vehicle
has either a dynamic or non-dynamic (coast-to-park) braking mechanism on the windshield
wiper motor. If you are replacing a switch, you need to know which type. This is all you
need to know. Consult your Vehicle Owner's Manual. For those who need to know how they
work, read on...
Dynamic
brake:
Essentially, when you turn the wipers Off, they stop when they reach
their park position, but they get retarded electrically to bring the motor to a rapid
stop. When you turn the wiper switch Off and the wipers reach the park position (left or
right), the armature of the wiper motor is disconnected from the load and immediately
connected across ground. The motor then functions as a loaded generator and develops a
retarding torque that rapidly stops the motor.
Non-dynamic brake:
Essentially, when you turn the wipers off, they stop when they
reach their park position. When you turn the wiper switch Off the wipers continue to run
by a separate set of contacts mounted on the motor, until the wipers reach their park
position. At this point the contacts open, removing power thereby stopping the wiper
motor. If the motor is not in the park position for the wipers, it continues to run until
it reaches the park position and the switch opens as before.
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Q: What is the difference between an electronic Windshield Wiper Switch and the
Microprocessor Windshield Wiper Switch?
Electronic
Windshield Wiper Switches are specific to a type of motor (with or without dynamic
parking).
Switches designed to work with dynamic park motors: the PARK wire is blue.
Typical switches:
75600-01 12V DC, controls two motors
75602-02 24V DC, controls two motors
75600-02 12V DC, controls one motor, Packard 6-way
75600-05 12V DC, controls one motor, Packard 4-way
75600-07 12V DC, controls one motor,
7-way connector Switches designed to work with non-dynamic park (or coast-to-park) motors:
the PARK wire is green.
Typical switches:
75601-02, 12V DC, controls two motors, Packard 8-way
75601-08, same as
75601-02 without knob Electronic switches have 7 leads ( 2 red leads).
Microprocessor based Windshield Wiper Switches can work with both types of motors. They
have 6 leads.
Typical switches:
75600 12V DC, with 8-way Packard connector
75600-04 12V DC, with 6 wire leads 75602-04 24V DC, with 6 wire leads
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Ignition
Switches
Q: Anti-Restart Ignition Switches.
What are they, and where
should they be used?
Series 956
anti-restart Ignition Switches are regular ignition switches PLUS. Ever been in your car not realizing the engine is running, and turned on
the ignition, only to hear a squealing and grinding of gears? Do it a few more times and
you'll burn out the starter motor!
The same thing happens with commercial vehicles. Not so
much with heavy trucks, where you can distinctly hear the engine running and feel the
vibration, but definitely in delivery vans. Often the driver will park at the curb, leave
the engine running, make a quick delivery, get back in the van and hit the ignition.
Grind! Crunch!
Cole Hersee 956 Series Anti-Restart Ignition Switches
prevent this happening. Your delivery van fleet starter motors are safe!
How they work:
Most regular ignition switches have three positions.
- Off: key can be removed.
- Ignition and accessories (radio, lights etc) are activated.
- Momentary Start position runs the starter motor. This
position is spring-loaded to return to position 2 once the engine is running.
Now if you don't realize the ignition switch is in position
2 (you think it's in position 1), you may be tempted to turn it to position 3 (you think
you're turning to position 2) with loud and disastrous results!
With Cole Hersee 956 Series Ignition switches the driver
cannot turned to Position 3 when the engine is running.
(If he wants to restart for some reason, he'll have to turn the engine off, then
restart).
This safeguard against burnt-out motors can be retrofitted
into any kind of vehicle, such as forklifts or mining vehicles (where the ambient noise is
high).
This kind of 'lockout ignition' is available with a
standard ignition key or with a lever (for off-road applications).
Printable
document
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